Tanling ruqun (Chinese: 坦领襦裙; pinyin: Tǎnlǐng rúqún; lit. 93-94 low-cut U-shaped collar upper inner garment with long sleeves, a U-shaped collar banbi upper outer garment with short sleeves, a long high-waisted skirt. It can also be adorned with a shawl, called pipo (Chinese: 披帛). It was a popular form of clothing attire in the Sui and Tang dynasty. In the 21st century, the Tanling ruqun re-appeared as a result of the Hanfu movement. The 21st century Tanling ruqun was developed by reproducing the original patterns of the historical tanling ruqun while being aligned with modern aesthetics. Tanling (Chinese: 坦领; pinyin: Tǎnlǐng) refers to the U-shaped (Chinese: 坦; pinyin: Tǎn; lit. Chinese: 领; pinyin: Lǐng; lit. The term tanling ruqun is composed of the terms tanling and ruqun. The term ruqun refers to the traditional two piece attire of the ancient Han Chinese consisting of a skirt and an upper garment called ru. U-shaped banbi which is worn as an outer upper garment. 291The skirts could be embellished with stripe patterns of two colours or be found in monochrome colours. The tanling ruqun is mainly composed three parts: a long wrap skirt, a U-shaped collar inner shirt with long sleeves, and a tanling banbi (a U-shaped short sleeves outer jacket). 85-86 they could also wear it together with variety of hats. 291 The banbi could also be tucked under or worn over the long skirt. Detailed of a Tang dynasty woman wearing a tanling banbi under a skirt. 291In the Tang dynasty, hats of foreign origins or influence, such as the mili, weimao and humao, were worn when horseback riding. There is embroidered borders at the sleeves of the banbi. Woman rider wearing a tanling ruqun and a humao, Horse and female rider, Tang dynasty. A maid wearing tanling ruqun with pipo over the shoulders, mural from the tomb of Yanfei (燕妃), Tang dynasty. Tang dynasty woman wearing a tanling ruqun and pibo (shawl), she is holding a mili. 25 The new style of clothing had high waisted skirt almost similar to the Empire silhouette and the upper garments had low décolletage. The late sixth century, for example in the Sui dynasty, was marked the arrival of new style of women’s Hanfu. Tanling garments, including the tanling banbi, was already popular in the court of the early Sui dynasty, the predecessor of the Tang dynasty. 25 The Sui dynasty women already liked wearing banbi over their long-sleeved clothing. The Tang dynasty continued the clothing style of its predecessor, and women continued to wear high-waisted skirt, low-cut upper garments and long skirts. According to the New Book of Tang, “banbi, skirt, and ru are common clothes for maids served at the Eastern Palace”. In the 7th century, palace women could wear banbi over a plain shirt and a high-waisted, A-line skirts which could be monochrome or striped. Some shapes of banbi (such as the tanling banbi) worn in the early Tang appears to have been mainly influenced by the banbi worn in Qiuci. In the first decade of the 8th century, skirts in monochrome colours became more popular than stripped skirts. In the Tang dynasty, new styles of Tanling banbi appeared and became extremely popular. Maid from the tomb of Wei guifei (韋貴妃), Tang dynasty. Three female musicians wearing Tanling ruqun, Tang dynasty. 85 By the mid-Tang dynasty around the mid-8th century, upper garments with low décolletage lost popularity and women started to cover themselves with shawls; there were also new ideals of beauty favouring extremely plump and voluptuous women over the youthful slenderness of the Sui and the early Tang dynasties. Xiuhefu (秀禾服): a type of aoqun worn as a Traditional Chinese Wedding dress in Qing and in modern era. Qungua (裙褂): a type of ruqun worn as a Traditional Chinese Wedding dress in Qing and in modern era. Chen, Bu Yun (2013). Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907) (Thesis). Chen, BuYun (2017-01-02). “Material Girls: Silk and Self-Fashioning in Tang China (618-907)”. Fashion Theory. Xuanduan (玄端): a very formal dark ruqun with accessories; equivalent to the Western white tie. 王金妍. “Hanfu: China’s traditional Han-style clothing”. Chen, Buyun (2019). Empire of style : silk and fashion in Tang China. James C. Y. Watt, Prudence Oliver Harper, Metropolitan Museum of Art. China : dawn of a golden age, 200-750 AD. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. China : dawn of a golden age, 200-750 AD. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. James C. Y. Watt, Prudence Oliver Harper, Metropolitan Museum of Art. John S. Major. New Haven: Yale University Press. Steele, Valerie (1999). China chic : East meets West. 李竹润., 王德华., 顾映晨. Beijing: Wu zhou chuan bo chu ban she. Introduction to Chinese culture : cultural history, arts, festivals and rituals. Guobin Xu, Yanhui Chen, Lianhua Xu, Kaiju Chen, Xiyuan Xiong, Wenquan Wu. Zhao, Qiwang; Lyu, Qianyun (2020). “Western Cultural Factors in Robes of Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties as Well as Sui and Tang Dynasties” (PDF). Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 License; additional terms may apply. This page was last edited on 2 November 2024, at 15:30 (UTC). By using this site, you agree to the Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. Wikipedia® is a registered trademark of the Wikimedia Foundation, Inc., a non-profit organization.